| Location
of the routes: Top
of Page
Most of the consistently forming routes occur in the Central
or Southern area of the range. Indeed the only documented routes
north of Giant’s Castle are the South Gully of Champagne
Castle, the South Gully of Cathkin Peak and the Cleft Peak Frontal
Route (Godbold’s route). A snow gully has also been climbed
just north of Langalibalele Pass but very little is known about
it. All these routes seldom form fully and as a result are seldom
climbed. They tend to be mainly névé snow routes.
The Cleft Peak route is probably very good climbing when in
condition.
In
the last few years a number of water-ice routes have been discovered
across the border in Lesotho. There is most likely much more
to be found for the adventurous climber. The Drakensberg south
of the Transkei border and in the Rhodes region probably also
has much undiscovered ice.
Areas north of Giant’s Castle Top
of Page
The following routes are seldom in condition and therefore not
often climbed. Not very much is known of what they are actually
like. That said they probably give very good climbing for a
few weeks every year. Good snowfalls would be essential. All
are normally rock routes.
Cleft Peak: Frontal Route (Godbold’s Route)
Grade: III WI 3 F3 not confirmed.
First ascent: B. Godbold, A. Millard and N. Millard (née
Bokenham). July 1946.
Time: A full day.
This route may be approached in various ways - none of them
easy. Route finding is simplest if you follow the crest of the
ridge leading up from near Tseke Hut. This approach has a lot
of thick bush in the lower stages and requires bypassing rocky
knolls higher up - not recommended. The easiest approach is
to cut across the spurs starting near the stream at the sharp
bend in the contour path between junctions C7 and C8. One can
also traverse from Camel Pass along below the main wall. Whichever
approach you use ends up near the base of the huge rock wall
to the left (east) of the massive cleft. Walk to the right and
scramble up a couple of short grassy/icy gullies to reach a
large nose of rock some 100m left of a point directly below
the start of the cleft. Climb up on broken rock and grass/snow
on the right of the nose. This involves about 60m of exposed,
unpleasant scrambling which leads to a chimney on the right.
From the top, walk across a good ledge leading to the right.
There is a small bivvy cave midway along this ledge. Follow
the ledge further to the right and around into the cleft. The
cleft itself is then climbed. This simply involves a series
of icy chimneys, separated by easy snow slopes. The final chimney
is short and overhanging with two good cracks. It is at least
F3 but may be bypassed by making a few moves out of the main
cleft on the right wall and then around and up an easy gully,
parallel to the main cleft, to reach the top.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1946, pg 35.
Champagne Castle South Gully Route
Grade III 2 E
First ascent: D. Watkins, P. Richards, J. B. Anderson and R.
Denny. July 1955.
Time: About 3 hours to the top.
From
Keith Bush Camp walk upstream for about one hour to a major
fork. The gully on the left leads up to the Monk's Cowl - Champagne
Castle nek and the gully on the right leads straight up the
north west face of Champagne Castle. Climb the snow gully, with
a couple of E grade rock pitches, to reach the top of the escarpment
about 500m from the highest point of Champagne Castle.
Descend via Grey's Pass.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1955, pg 39.
Cathkin South Gully (Standard Route)
Grade: III 2 E
First ascent: G.T. Amphlett, W.C. West, Father A.D. Kelly, T.
Casement, Tobias and Melatu. 12 September 1912.
Time: 7 hours from Keith Bush Camp.
From
Keith Bush, walk up to the nek between Cowl and Cathkin and
descend some 150m on the Injasuti side. Traverse into the gully
just above the large wash away. Do not try to take a shortcut
on the small higher ledge.
The first rock band on the left of the gully is broken by a
grass gully, which is followed up and right to the next main
ledge. Snow and ice could be encountered from top to bottom
on this entire route. Where grass or rock is mentioned, it could
in fact be covered by ice at times.
A narrow grass ramp then leads up and left to open grass slopes,
until a small rock band forces one into the gully itself via
an exposed traverse. Continue up avoiding the waterfalls until
a large recess is reached. Scramble up the centre, past a small
cave on your left hand side, and then traverse 15m leftwards
above the cave (C+) to reach a knife edge or arête. This
can be very tricky in winter. Follow this to the base of a chimney.
Climb this chimney to a small grassy stance (crux, E if dry).
This pitch could prove very difficult in icy conditions. Climb
another short crack and traverse left across sloping rocks until
a steep but easy face is reached. Climb to the top. Note: The
following variation is often used when the chimney is wet or
iced up. (Opened by Mervyn Gans 1977). Start at the same level
as the foot of the chimney and 10m to the right.
1) F1 10m. There is a short crack with a block sticking out
of it about 2m above the ground. Climb the crack to a cubbyhole;
move left, then up, using high handholds. Scramble up to the
foot of the next sheer face.
2) F1 40m. Traverse right for about 3m, moving around a delicate
corner. Climb straight up a recessed face (open book), continue
to the top.
Descend via the same route, with the number of abseils depending
on conditions. An alternative descent is via the south east
ridge.
Ref.: MCSA Journal 1913, pg 79; 1937, pg 77; 1986, pg 51.
Giant’s Castle massif Top
of Page
This is the home of the range's best water-ice routes. They
are located on the south side of the massif. Ice forms from
late May, right through to late August. The best time is usually
mid to late July. The ice is very consistent, even if there
has been no snow. Almost all the routes form from streams and
seepages. They are best approached from the Giant's Castle Camp.
An eight-hour hike with full kit over the Giant's Castle Pass
gives access to the upper reaches of the mountain's south face.
Unlike most other winter-climbing areas of the world, these
climbs are usually accessed from the top. The lip of the south
face has numerous flat areas to camp, from where the climbs
are then reached either by abseiling or scrambling down to the
beginnings of the icefalls. The top of “Makaza”
is the usual base camp.
Giant's Castle holds the best conditions for ice climbing because,
in this area, the escarpment edge runs from east to west for
about four kilometres. This then forms a long, cold and shady
cliff-edge where temperatures seldom rise above freezing point
for the entire winter. Furthermore, a long grass slope running
up towards the main summit stretches above the cliff edge. This
acts as a huge catchment for snow and rain, which later runs
down over the edge and provides the moisture to cause “fat”
conditions. There are also numerous easy-angled gullies, which
fill with deep snow in this area. These do not become hard water-ice,
but slowly consolidate over time to become ‘névé
ice’ or very hard snow.
Currently,
several major climbs have been done on this peak and numerous
others still await first ascents. Most of the unclimbed falls
are steep, multi-pitch routes that will require more skill and
determination than the present generation of local climbers
can deal with.
Eastern
Gully
Grade: II, 2
Time: 6 hours from hut to summit.
Approach
the Eastern Gully from Giant's Hut. This gully starts from the
top of the narrow valley below which the hut is located. The
climb consists of easy angled névé-ice. There
is a small waterfall at the start, which can sometimes be awkward.
The climb consists of a superb gully running all the way to
the top of the escarpment. The exit is just south of the summit
of the peak. Reliant on good snow falls. The Giant’s Hut
is an ideal base camp.
Giant's
Frontal in Winter (Sherman's Route)
Grade: II, 2 F3
First winter ascent: G. Raubenheimer, G. Stewart. July 1996.
This
route is the winter version of the original rock climb.
If
approaching from Giant’s hut, walk up the amphitheatre
below the summit, heading for a nek on the right. From this
nek, traverse right to an obvious rocky gully that leads to
the upper grass ledge. This gully can also be reached from directly
below. When on the upper grass band, walk left (south) past
the start of Schole’s Route and the Giant’s Nostrils
caves until below a short cliff with a chimney. The main head
wall of the Giant is now directly above. The chimney is the
first pitch. This route will only be snowed up after major snow
falls and prolonged cold weather.
1)
WI 2 F3 15m. Ascend the short icy chimney to near the top, then
break out onto the right hand wall and up.
Move
up broken ground and then left about 20 meters to the next rock
band.
2)
F3 15m. Start below an overhang with a left facing open book
on
the left of the overhang. Ascend via a slab and layback to a
large
ledge with an abseil point. This pitch is free of snow.
From
the abseil point traverse left all the way to the main ridge.
Scramble up onto the ridge crest then scramble to the summit,
usually
in snow.
Descent:
Scramble all the way back to the top of pitch 2 and a bolted
abseil point. Then scramble down to the top of pitch one to
more abseil chains just right (south) of the top of the chimney.
Shisa
About 15 minutes walk east of Makaza amphitheatre is another
smaller but very steep gully of ice. This has only been top-roped
on the upper section. It probably consists of about three steep
pitches.
Shisa
is the Zulu word for hot.
Shisa Coulior Area - TOPO
About 15 minutes walk east of Makaza amphitheatre is another smaller but very steep gully of ice. Two routes are located here. Shisa is the Zulu word for hot.
She's a Man Eater
Grade: III WI 4
First asecent: G. Frost, M. Sporen 13 July 2006
Approach:
Descend the route by multiple abseils . The climb begins at the bottom of a long steep section (50m) with an overhang in the face about 40m above the ground.
Pitch 1 (50m WI 4)
Climb on the right hand side of the ice fall avoiding the overhanging section on the left then move leftwards with the ramp to a stance on a flat section.
Pitch 2 (30m WI 2)
Continue up the ramp on easy ground to a stance on a flat spot below a rocky scramble dividing the climbing pitches.
Pitch 3 (walk)
Walk along the rocky section to below the next ice pitch.
Pitch 4 (60m WI 2)
Continue climbing up to belay at a large boulder in the ice on the right hand side of the gully below the ice chimney that leads up to the upper section of the climb.
Pitch 5 (20m WI 3)
Climb up the face to a ledge below the overhangs above.
Pitch 6 (35m WI 3+)
Climb the break on the right up to a large ledge and belay at the back of the cave section (protection from ice falling from above).
Pitch 7 (40m WI 2)
Traverse leftwards on ramps and ledges to below the centre portion of the face and belay on a small ledge just to the right of the central ice pillar.
Pitch 8 (25m WI 4)
Climb up from the stance then tend leftwards to the pillar. Climb the pillar directly to the top and belay behind a rock to the left of the top-out.
This route needs a good season to form completely. Pitches 5 and 6 can be combined.
Faber-Castell
This is a fairly consistently forming 40m “pencil”
of ice that forms on the eastern side of the Shisa gully. It
has only been top-roped so far.
Makaza
Grade: III WI 4
First ascent: J. Ingman, R. Guest, R. Pocock. 1985.
Time: 4 hours of actual climbing.
Makaza
is a long, 300m icefall running over the south escarpment edge
of Giant's Castle. The climbing is not sustained and harder
sections can be scrambled around. From the top of Giant’s
Pass walk down towards the south escarpment edge and then eastwards
to the first major river which runs over the edge. Map co-ordinates
29° 21’ 00’ S, 29° 28’ 20’’
E. There is a level patch of ground at the lip of the icefall
where most parties camp while climbing in the area. A circular
stone wall for wind protection is also located here. From the
edge, abseil and scramble down to the start some 300m below
in the gully.
1)
WI 3 50m. Start in a narrow amphitheatre of ice some 300m from
the top. Take the middle line up steep ice for 20m. The angle
then slackens off into an easier 30m ramp.
2)
WI 2 150m. Continue up the drainage, climbing several easy smears
until the final 25m wall is reached. Many lines exist up this
huge amphitheatre.
3)
WI 3 The classic line goes slightly right of centre up some
pleasant slabs. Or left of centre there is a chandeliered curtain
at half height. Start under the right edge of this curtain,
climb up to it, traverse under it to the left and exit straight
up. WI 3.
On
the extreme right on steep slabs is a line named “Return
To Fear”. (WI 4) First ascent by G. Raubenheimer 1996.
On
the extreme left is a steeper wall of about WI 5.
Makaza
is the Zulu word for cold.
Future
X
This route has never been properly climbed. It can be located
by following the stream from the summit of the pass till where
it flows over the southern escarpment edge, ie. just east of
the Main Event. In good winters this forms into about 5 long
pitches ending in a fall 50m, plumb vertical pillar. When it
is lead one day, it will probably be the most serious and longest
route in the whole of Africa (considering that most of east
Africa’s big ice routes no longer exist). The upper half
of this pillar has been top-roped by G. Raubenheimer.
Main
Event
Grade: III, WI 4
First ascent: J. Ingman, R. Guest, R. Pocock. 1985.
Time: 3 hours of actual climbing.
From
the top of Giant's Pass, walk straight down to the escarpment
edge to the south. The top of the icefall is then located a
few hundred metres west, in the corner formed by a long spit
of land jutting out over the Lotheni Pass. Map co-ordinates
29° 21’ 4’’ S , 29° 27’ 28’’
E. It is a huge 150m icefall with several climbable lines possible.
Abseil to the start. Belays at the top are hard to find. Some
grass pitons can be useful.
1)
WI 3, 40m. From the middle of the gully, climb steep, compact
ice until the angle eases below a large bulge of rock. Move
right and up to a belay 40m above the starting point.
2)
WI 2, 35m. Continue up until under the main head wall.
3) WI 4-5, 50m. Climb any number of variations on the huge
wall above.
4) Tight Screws Cold Hands
Grade : III WI 4
First ascent: H. Esterhuyse, H. Weight, R. Zipplies. July 2006
Half an hour’s walk from the camp site at Makaza towards Main Lotheni Couloir. Pass the top of the Main Event and keep walking towards the massive Main Lotheni gully to the west. About 5minutes walk. Tight Screws... is a broad, west facing gully which is a subsiduary of the Lotheni river.
Approach the first belay by carefully scrambling down the right hand side (looking down the gully) to a grassy ledge which offers good abseil-anchors in the corner using a large cam, nuts and/or pitons.
The first abseil takes you 40m to a grassy bank directly below the abseil anchors. Place ice screws and abseil another 20m to the bottom of the first pitch.
There is a third pitch lower down the gully. Access this by scrambling down a further 50m and then abseiling about 20m.
Pitch 1 (20m WI 3) This is generally a well formed ice wall and less chandeliered than the second pitch. Climb straight up the middle up steep ice.
Pitch 2 (45m WI 4) The second pitch is quite spectacular with beautiful chandeliered Ice. Climb up the middle to the top (vertical crux) and exit by traversing to the left where the anchors are set up.
Walkie Talkie
Grade: II WI 2
First ascent: Colin McCoy, Ce deCarvalho, G. Raubenheimer.
Approuch as for Tight Screws... Carry on walking with the main gully on your left till the next gully runs up from the bottom at an acute angle. Abseil off the edge to where ever the ice starts. Climb 2 or 3 easy pitches of ice. The top section onto the escarpment is the steepest section.
Pigs Can Fly
Grade: II WI 4
First ascent: T.Mann, I.Bailey 14 July 2006.
Approach and abseil as for Walkie Talkie. At the top of the Walkie Talkie gully climb the steep ice on the left just before the final section.
Big
Foot Little Step
Grade: III W2
First ascent: C. de Carvalho, M. Robertson, D. Robertson. 1991
This
route is located in the next gully immediately east of the final
pitch of the Main Lotheni Couloir. The route is usually approached
via abseiling down the route. It is also possible to abseil
down the upper pitch of the Main Loteni Couloirs in order to
get to the start.
Climb
the gully usually on névé and patches of water-ice.
In sparse years the gully is loose and rocky. Exit the gully
by a 35m pitch onto the escarpment.
Note: This route may have first been climbed by Jeff Ingman
and party.
Main
Lotheni Couloir
Grade: III, WI 4/5
First ascent: J. Ingman, R. Guest, R. Pocock. 1985
Time: 4 hours climbing.
The
climb forms in the upper reaches of the Lotheni River. This
climb was described by Jeff Ingman as the “plum”
of the Loteni valley. It is a Drakensberg Classic of world quality.
It
may be approached from Giant's Pass and by abseiling to the
start. Scramble down to where the river drainage runs over the
escarpment edge. Co-ordinates 29° 21’ 00’’
S, 29° 27’ 15’’ E. Abseil and scramble
down three separate ice pitches to the start. It is usually
possible to scramble around the short middle pitch when getting
to the start. The distance between the second and third pitches
is about 150 metres.
1)
WI 3 45m. This pitch starts in a deep and remote section of
the gully a few hundred meters down from the edge of the escarpment.
A long sustained pitch followed by walking. WI 3 if keeping
to the right or WI 4 if straight up the middle. Scramble for
150m to below the short middle pitch.
2)
WI 2 15m. Climb easy ice to below the final pitch.
3)
WI 3 35m. This final pitch is usually climbed on the left until
large
icicles are encountered hanging from above. Traverse out right
on
often chandeliered ice. Exit straight up. (WI 3/4, 45m). A very
spectacular pitch.
Comments:
If always taking the easiest line, this climb usually goes at
no more than WI 3. In very sparse years some sections may be
WI 5.
Madiba’s
Choice
WI 3
This is a short “boulder problem” at the top of
the Main Loteni Couloir. The river flows over a 5m drop-off
some 30 meters back from the final pitch of the main route.
Curtain
Call
WI 1
This is an ice smear high on the easy-angled slopes of the Loteni
river above the two above-mentioned routes.
Lotheni Pass area Top of
Page
This
area has no routes as such at this stage. There are two major
icefalls which occur on the south face of Redi Peak. There is
another route in the gully just north of “The Passage”,
a pass on the south side of Redi Peak. This has been seen by
Gavin Raubenheimer in 1997 when it formed into a 60m fall, but
consisted of fine chandeliers for the entire route. Raubenheimer
has twice been to the other two falls and never found them to
be properly formed. It does remain a place of good potential.
One pitch of grade W1 was climbed low down in the valley.
Sani
Pass and Black Mountain Area Top
of Page
This
area gives the most accessible ice climbing in the Drakensberg.
The easiest way to get to the falls is by driving up to the
top of Sani Pass and using the Sani Top Chalet as a base. From
the chalet the ice is approximately one hour’s walk away,
while Black Mountain is thirty minutes drive. There are three
grades of accommodation at the chalet. Choose either DB&B
(R300p/p) or the cheaper back-packer dormitory (R85p/p) or camp
in the grounds (R45p/p). The pub located here is also a major
attraction after a good day on the ice!
Valid
passports are needed as an international border-post must be
crossed. Take note that both border posts open at 8am and then
have different closing times. The Lesotho side closes for down-traffic
at 4pm and at 5pm for up-traffic while the South African side
closes at 4pm for both up and down-traffic. In recent years
the Sani Pass road surface has been upgraded to allow two-wheel-drive
traffic. However it is still advisable to at least travel it
in a bakkie (van) with lots of ground clearance and a low first
gear. If the surface is wet or snowy it is likely that two-wheel-drive
bakkies will find things impossible. Luckily, during the winter
when the ice is good, the road is in fact usually dry; that
is between cold fronts.
Sani
Pass Ice Bouldering
Located on the road edge in the upper reaches of the pass are
several long slabs of ice with steeper sections of a few metres
in height on the roadside. These are well worth playing around
on to develop good technique.
Cool
Bananas
Grade: II WI 3
First ascent: G. Raubenheimer, C. de Carvalho, D. Gramkow, J.
Bentley, S. Roberts. August 2001.
A
very pleasant route that is not committing and usually on very
good ice. It is reliant on good snowfalls. Walk along the Apostles
for 3.5 kilometres in the direction of “Phinong”.
The route lies in the first of two major cutbacks in the escarpment
edge. Two abseil bolts are located at the top of the gully.
Do
one abseil down into the cutback then scramble down next to
the ice to the start. (It is best to leave the abseil rope in
place to aide in the event of a retreat.) Scramble a few hundred
meters down the gully to where the ice ends. The route consists
of four to five easy ramps of ice. The gully then narrows just
below the top and where the abseil is. Climb a narrow ramp to
a platform in the small deep gully. Either exit out the back
of the gully or up the easy, but loose rock and grass on the
right. In 2001 the ice extended some 300 metres below the escarpment.
Note:
On the 8th August 2003 well known local climber, Greig Stewart
suffered a heart attack, and fell to his death while leading
the first pitch. He will always be remembered for his great
companionship, on and off the hill.
Split
Banana
II WI 3 F3.
First ascent: G. Raubenheimer, C. deCarvalho, J. Benson. July
2002.
This
route is a variation of Cool Bananas and has the same approach
and abseil. It splits off to the right (east) of the main route
just before the final pitch.
Climb
a short steep section to a large ledge (WI 3). Continue over
the ledge and up a recess consisting of easy ice and rock at
the top. Bolts are located just back from the edge of the escarpment.
French
Wench
Grade: II WI 4
First ascent: G. Raubenheimer, M. Maxfield, J. Farquharson ,
C. de Carvalho, I. Bailey. August 1997.
Approach
as for Cool Bananas but carry on for another ten minutes in
the direction of “Phinong” to the second large cutback.
Scramble down 30 metres at the very back of the gully to the
top of the last pitch, which is located in a narrowing of the
main drainage. Bolted abseil point located just back from the
top pitch. Abseil down a 15 metre pitch to a platform, then
down another full-length abseil or to wherever the ice extends.
The
first section consists of easy angles and sometimes thin ice
until the final pitch is reached. This pitch consists of steep
overlaps and chandeliers at grade WI 4.
NOTE:
On both French Wench and Cool Bananas there is a danger of falling
ice on the lower pitches. This danger is from slabs of ice located
on the eastern sides of the respective gullies. It is particularly
bad in the late afternoon when they receive direct sun.
Black
Satin Couloir
Grade: I WI 4
First Ascent: G. Raubenheimer, D. Marshall. July 2001.
From
Sani Top drive for approximately twenty kilometres into Lesotho
and over Black Mountain Pass. On the other side of the pass
a large corrugated iron wool shed is located on the right. Turn
off here and drive up a track for 500 metres to near a hut.
Park there, cross the river and proceed up the far slope. The
ice is located in the drainage above and about 30 minutes walk
away.
The
route consists of four distinct steps of steep and often thin
ice. When this route was opened the ice was thin and involved
delicate leading. However, in better conditions the climbing
should be no more than grade WI 3. It is possible to walk off
between pitches.
Rhino
Area Top of Page
Mashai
pass can make a good winter walk after good snow. Crampons and
a walking axe are needed. An interesting exit can be done by
keeping in the main gully of the pass and taking a right hand
side gully about 100m before the final rock band. Up this till
it narrows, pass underneath a chock stone and mantelshelf onto
the top.
Rutting
Rhino Route
Grade: I WI 3
First accent G. Raubenheimer, C. de Carvalho, and I. Bailey.
August 1996.
About
1.5 hours past Pillar Cave up Mashai Pass, a water fall is located
on the left side just before the path zig zags up the left side
of the valley.
Walk
up the smear to below a thin ramp of ice (belay stance). Follow
the ramp to a rock pillar, passing it on the right and, exit
straight up to belay from a huge block on the ledge above. 50
meter pitch. Walk off to the right (north).
This
route only forms after very cold and snowy conditions. It is
prone to melting due to it being on a north-facing slope. The
icefall forms in the shadow of Rhino Peak while the upper reaches
of the drainage receive direct sun.
Ref:
MCSA journal 1996
Half
Pint and Quarter Cadaver
Two other ice smears occur in the area. Some 50 meters up the
pass from the Rutting Rhino, an easy smear forms with a steep
step at the top. This is called Half-Pint. Further up the pass
on the north side is another easy smear named Quarter Cadaver.
Both first climbed by G. Raubenheimer and C. deCarvalho.
Mlambonja
Couloir
Grade: II 2 F2
First accent: G. Raubenheimer, J. Farquharson. July 1990.
This
is a snow gully route with a mixed section at the start. In
years of very heavy snow this section is ramped over with snow.
From
Pillar Cave hike over into the next valley south of Mashai Pass.
This very quiet and beautiful valley runs up to between Mlambonja
and Wilson's peaks. At a point below the two peaks it is split
into two distinct gullies with "Panic Pile" standing
between them.
Take
the right hand gully. After the fork about 500m of boulder hopping
brings one to a very narrow section at the base of the mountain.
There are two huge chock stones with ice in between. Climb straight
up and to the right of these blockages. Continue up the gully
to the top. Easy snow/ice plod. Crampons and at least one axe
are needed. Take a small selection of rock gear for the mixed
pitch. Descent via the route or Mashai Pass.
The
left hand fork of the valley has been climbed several times
as far as the final rock band but never completed to the summit.
Both these gullies commonly give lovely winter conditions well
into September.
Ref:
MCSA journal 1993
Mashai
South Face
Grade: II 2 F2
First ascent: D. Watkins, D. Quaife, J. de Groote. July 1988.
This
mixed climb is located on the south side of Mashai peak and
is a snow gully with mixed sections along the way. To approach,
hike up past Sleeping Beauty cave. When this valley starts to
steepen towards the main wall of the Berg, about 1,5km after
the cave, walk left into the next valley south. About one kilometre
up this valley the route starts up a very long reverse "S"
shaped gully. It runs from near the valley bottom continuously
to the escarpment (see map).
Head
up the gully avoiding a chocked chimney by going left. Carry
on up the gully with easy mixed ground. Avoid a blockage by
traversing onto the right hand-face for 10 meters, then up under
an overhang. (F2) The gully becomes very narrow towards the
top, up a series of icy chimneys. Climbing time: Half a day.
Ref:
MCSA journal 1988
Oxbow
Area Top of Page
This
area is located near the A1 road in the western area of the
Maluti range of Lesotho. Most of the climbing is in the valley
near the New Oxbow Lodge. A few falls also exit near the road
on the Moteng Pass area. Most areas can be spotted from the
road and are accessible by car followed by a short walk.
To
get to the area drive into Lesotho at Caledonspoort border post.
A short way after the border, Butha-Buthe town is reached. Turn
left onto the A1 and drive towards Oxbow, Afriski and the Moteng
Pass. The drive to Oxbow is along a good tar road which winds
up through spectacular mountain scenery. On the pass a steep
ice waterfall is passed, which is unnamed and unclimbed as yet.
Oxbow is marked by the lodge of the same name and is on the
other side of the pass. The drive from the border to the lodge
will take about 1,5 hours.
Oxbow
valley routes
Grade : WI 3 60m
First ascent: Unknown.
The
climbing in this area is found in the river valley after the
New Oxbow Lodge. Pass the lodge until the river and the sharp
right hand bend in the road. Park just before the bridge on
the right hand side of the road. Cross the road and follow the
path up the river on the right hand bank. The icefall can be
seen up the hill on the left hand side of the river. This is
about a 40minute walk from the car park. Cross the river then
ascend the slopes to below the icefall.
1)
WI 3 30m. Climb directly up the easy slabs to where it steepens,
then ascend the right hand side to a small ledge next to the
rock face.
2) WI 2 30m. Climb leftwards up from the stance then continue
up the easy but somewhat grassy slope to the top.
Descent:
Walk rightwards from the top of the route to the start of a
valley. Descend this valley. Can be fun when it is snowed up.
Note:
This route forms most seasons and makes a pleasant area for
beginners to try out a 2-pitch route. There are also some icy
slabs to climb in the valley to the right of the main icefall.
Main
Oxbow Falls
Grade: I WI 4
First ascent: Unknown.
A
few kilometers further on from the New Oxbow Lodge an “A”
frame building is passed on the right, which is the Maluti Ski
Club hut. The
route is on the opposite side of the road from the hut. Park
near the hut and cross the road and then walk up to the waterfall.
It
consists of steep water-ice and is 20 metres in length with
a steep chandeliered section at the top. There are good belays
at the top if the route is top-roped. Rock protection is also
possible on the face on the right before the steeper section.
Note:
The icy slab below the falls makes for an excellent training
area for beginners. There are also some great boulder problems
up on the left of the main icefall.
Oxbow
Amphitheater
Approach this small amphitheater formation in the valley to
the right of the Main Oxbow icefall. It needs a good season
to form but can produce some great climbing. Park the car just
off the road and walk up the valley to the icefall.
The
routes are 10-15m in height and range from grades WI3 to WI5+
and mixed climbing also.
Note:
This area has not formed in the past four years due to above
average winter temperatures and below average winter snowfall.
Oxbow
ice-bouldering crag
To approach this area drive past the Maluti Ski Hut and up the
long hill. After a few kilometers you will get to the Afriski
entrance. Continue along the road for a short distance (less
than 5km) until a small parking area is visible on the right
hand side. Walk down from the parking to a rocky outcrop that
gets covered in ice. There are many possibilities for short
boulder problems and easy slabs for beginners.
Note:
A good spot for training and trying out some mixed climbing.
Forms up in most seasons and generally has ice when the other
areas are dry.
Bokong area Top of Page
Bokong
Nature Reserve, Central Maluti Mountains, Lesotho. This area
is located in the Central range of the Maluti Mountains of Lesotho.
It has perhaps the most sustained ice route opened in southern
Africa. To get there enter Lesotho at the Ficksburg border post.
Turn left onto the A1 to Leribe, then right onto the A25 for
Katse Dam. Drive up the Pitseng Pass. A short drive beyond the
summit (2,5km) turn off the road to the Bokong Nature Reserve
Visitor Centre. Park here and take the 20 minute walk to the
main falls.
The
main icefall is the obvious choice for climbing but is not ideal
for inexperienced climbers. There is easier climbing available
at the bottom and to the left of the icefall and another area
over the ridge to the northeast
Climbing
description: The Lepaqoa waterfall is a continuous 60m vertical
drop, which can form well to produce a spectacular and demanding
climb. Unfortunately it can be very fickle and has been known
to collapse, making it a very hazardous route. In a good winter
season with low temperatures the icefall forms more solidly.
Take care on this route if it appears to be very wet with lots
of ice chunks coming off.
Accommodation:
Bokong NR allows climbers to sleep on the floor in the visitors
centre or there are hikers huts available at the falls. The
visitors centre has toilets but no shower and there is a partially
equipped kitchen with a sink and gas cooker. The views across
the valley are quite spectacular through the large windows in
the centre.
Bokong
Falls (The Lepaqoa waterfall)
Grade: II WI 5
First ascent: I. McMaster, C. Loubser. July 2003.
Follow
the hiking trail that leads from the parking area above the
visitors centre to the hikers huts at the falls. This is a 20
minute hike. Either abseil from the bolt anchors at the top
of the falls or descend to the bottom of the falls via the steep
valley on the right of the falls. Then cross over the river
and climb the short hill turning rightwards at the top to approach
the start of the valley. Descend the valley keeping rightwards
to avoid the rock band. Scramble down on the right hand side
of the steep spur and traverse across to the falls. This is
quite a fun route when there is some snow.
1)
WI 4+ 30m. Start at the ramp below the icefall then climb up
directly through steeper ice to gain a small sloping ledge to
make a semi-hanging stance.
2)
WI 5 30m. From the stance, climb up tending leftwards to a thin
pillar. Climb the pillar pulling through the small overhang
to gain a ledge. Continue up passing a series of steep steps
to the bolt anchors on the rock ledge on the left of the top
of the falls.
OR: WI 4+ 30m. From the stance, climb up tending rightwards
to a section of chandeliers. Climb up moving leftwards higher,
then continue up directly passing a series of steep steps to
the bolt anchors on the rock ledge on the left of the top of
the falls.
The
Siberian Enema
Grade II WI 5 F3 15m
First ascent: G. Frost, A. Grant. July 2003.
This
is the short icicle that forms at the top of the cliff to the
right of the Lepaqoa falls. It can be approached by abseiling
down from the top, using some boulders for anchor points or
climbing up the right hand gully from the bottom of the falls.
The climb up the gully is only recommended when there is some
snow in the gully to help ascend the short rock band.
Climb
from the ledge at the bottom of the icicle starting on the left
hand side. Climb up then move rightwards higher onto the front
of the icicle to gain the second section. Continue up to the
top of the ice and into the niche. Exit the overhang on the
right hand side using placements in the rock and grass to gain
the top of the route.
Moonlight
Alien
Grade II WI 2 – WI 4 10m.
First ascent: G. Frost, M. Niewoudt. 23 July 2005.
Time: 20 min from the Lepaqoa falls
Follow
the stream, from the top of the falls, up the valley for a few
hundred meters then turn right and walk to the top of the ridge.
A section of ice forming at the top of a small rock band can
be seen a bit further down in the valley below.
Pricing:
1 pax 105 GBP (US$154 euro 144) per day
2 pax 75 GBP (US$110 euro 100) per day
3 pax 60 GBP (US$88 euro 83) per day
Includes transport, food,
guiding and permits
Courses R2400
-end-
Contact
Us
Top of Page
|
