Rock Climbing Leader Certificate

Prospectus

Introduction

 

The Rock Climbing Leader Scheme provides comprehensive training and assessment for those working in a voluntary capacity who wish to lead groups on multi-pitch rock climbs of moderate severity.

 

Scope

 

The scheme offers candidates the opportunity to gain technical competence in leading (groups) on multi-pitch rock climbs of moderate severity that:

 

·          are non-serious and have little objective danger

·          present no difficulties of approach or retreat

·          present no difficulties in route finding.

 

The scheme does not cover the skills needed to approach and retreat from mountain crags.

 

Completion of a training course alone, without taking and assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the trainee.

 

Developed by Chakarinet

Stages

 

The Scheme consists of:

 

1.       registration and issue of a log book

2.       a five day training course

3.       further experience gained during a consolidation period

4.       a three day assessment course

5.       Continuing experience entered in a log book.

 

Registration

 

Candidates wishing to register must:

 

·          not be less than 20 years of age

·          have a genuine interest in rock climbing and group leadership

·          have at least 24 months experience of rock climbing

·          hold the Single Pitch Supervisor Award

·          complete the registration form and enclose the appropriate fee.

 

Training

 

Before attending a training course candidates must ensure that they are registered with the MDT.

 

On completion of registration, and once in possession of a Leadership Training Scheme log book, Rock Climbing Leader Certificate insert, candidates must attend a training course run by an approved course provider [1].

 

The course is a minimum of five days in duration and usually residential. In certain cases it may be run over a series of weekends.

 

The training course is for potential leaders and assumes basic competence in rock climbing. It emphasises those skills, which the candidate might have difficulty in learning without guidance.

 

The director of the training course will complete the appropriate page/s in the candidate's log book.

 

Log book

 

The Candidate's relevant experience of rock climbing should be recorded in the log book. Entries should be concise and easily read, providing a complete record of the candidates experience.

 

The log book is divided into five sections, including:

 

·          a record of experience gained prior to the training course [2]

·          particulars of the training course completed by the director of training

·          a record of experience gained during the period between the training and assessment courses

·          particulars of the assessment course completed and issued by the director of assessment

·          a record of experience gained after assessment.

 

Consolidation

 

During the period between training and assessment, candidates are expected to gain extensive experience of rock climbing in a number of areas and venues and some practice in leading parties on climbs of moderate severity.

 

The consolidation period will be a minimum of twelve months.

 

Experience gained overseas, while valuable is not a substitute for specific experience gained in South Africa. Candidates should therefore have substantial experience of South African mountains.

 

First Aid

 

At the start of the assessment course the candidate must hold a currently valid approved First Aid Certificate.

 

Assessment

 

Before attending an assessment course candidates must:

 

·          have led or alternate-led 20 named multi-pitch climbs at grade 15 or above in at least 3 climbing areas

·          have acted in the capacity of assistant leader to a group on a multi-pitch climbs on a number of occasions

·          be familiar with all aspects of the syllabus

·          have gained a broad working knowledge of rock climbing including the crag and mountain environment

·          have obtained a reference from a referee

·          hold a valid approved first aid certificate

 

When applying for assessment, candidates must present their log book and first aid certificate to the director of assessment to confirm that sufficient experience has been gained.

 

During the residential assessment course, which lasts a minimum of three days, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The director of assessment will then endorse the log book and assessment report and make appropriate recommendations.

 

The assessment report will take one of three forms:

Pass: awarded when the candidate has demonstrated a proper knowledge and application of the course syllabus and had shown the necessary experience for and attributes of basic mountain leadership.

 

Deferred: awarded where the candidate has generally performed well and has shown the necessary experience and attributes, but where complete proficiency has not been attained in certain aspects of the syllabus.

 

Recommended reassessment: awarded where the candidate's performance has been weak, or the necessary experience and attributed have not been shown.

 

Exemption

 

Exemption from stages two to four will only be gained in exceptional cases. Applications for exemption must be made in writing to: The Convenor, The Accreditation Committee, South African Mountaineering Development and Training Programme.